No Ganas for Bangkok After Tuk Tuks, TAT and Typhoon
04.10.2006 16:34 Thailand - Source: thailand-ho
I think I’ve finally had a bit of luck, not without it’s karmatic cost though let me tell ya. Emily mentioned her idea of Bangkok from the Beach which is kinda right on actually. I guess things have changed a bit, and honestly I’m pretty sure Leo found himself on the Khao San Road which is supposedly a tourist hole/trap. I haven’t been over there but people I’ve talked to keep saying to avoid it. I’m not so full of ganas for seeing the rest of Bangkok anymore however, so I don’t think it’ll be a problem.
So, why no ganas for Bangkok? Well yesterday I found myself in a tourist trap big time. Upon arrival at the hotel yesterday, my room wasn’t quite “ready” for me so they had me wait about an hour. I had a smoke and a coffee in the lounge (free somehow...) but got bored waiting and thought I’d head over to the Siam shopping complex which I figured wouldn’t be too far away given the proximity on the map. I still don’t think it’s too far away, but I still don’t know because I never made it there yesterday.
Walking down the little shit-shop streets from my hotel towards Siam Square, crossing the street at Petchburi Road, a guy started chatting with me as we were crossing. He mentioned something about a market that was only open today and thought I was heading over there. I told him my situation and where I was going (STUPID) and he said that he was the head of security for my hotel! I thought: cool. He seemed friendly enough without trying too hard and upon questioning about my plans in Thailand he said that I just “had to go to the Tourist Association of Thailand” today at some point because as of tomorrow (today) the high season started, kids got out of school and all the prices would be going up. Soon enough I was popped into a tuk tuk (the little three wheeled cabs that everyone warns you about) and off to the TAT to see what they could offer. The guy had told the tuk tuk driver to charge no more than 30 baht (less than $1) for the ride which I thought was fair.
I arrived at the TAT office just as it started to rain. I explained that I had no plans (they were super nice and polite by the way) and that I might be going to Koh Chang this weekend with a friend (this guy Marc who I’ll have to tell you more about), and after that maybe to Cambodia, Vietnam and Laos. She explained that I’d need to get a bus to Koh Chang and that she could get me a good deal at a resort on the island (Koh Chang is an island near Cambodia). As well, I’d need to apply for the visas for the other three countries before I left Bangkok as they don’t supply them at the border. Oh! Well that’s good that I found that out then right? Right… So I ended up over at the photo shop across the highway getting 8 passport photos (300 baht!) and exchanging my passport for a photocopy for the next couple days while I wait for my three new visas (which will be delivered to my hotel supposedly). I booked a bus for Koh Chang including the ferry ride for (600 baht, though Marc says it’s normally 200 baht without the ferry). I also picked up a two night stay at this resort (which looks really nice) for 1300 baht per night on the island. Okay okay, not so so bad. I was going to need a place anyway, but it would’ve been good to talk to Marc first (damn him! Why did he wait till 8pm to call me last night?!). So, like 3500 baht later (hotel, bus, photos) which is about $100 I thought I was doing okay and upon seeing the pictures of the resort was actually kinda happy about my luck. Then she totaled up the charges for the visas. Including the “100 baht for the TAT per visa” it came to like 9600 baht!!! That’s like $300! Just for visas! DAMN IT! That’s when I started thinking this might not be the best way for me to arrange my travel plans.
I left feeling only slightly ripped off. I mean the bus was going to pick me up from the hotel, I’d gone from 4 nights at the resort to 2 in case, and the visas would be delivered to me at the hotel and I’ll be able to enter Cambodia any time between Oct. 20 and Nov. 10 for a month duration. The original tuk tuk driver had said he’d wait for me and considering the original price I got I thought this would be good. As I got in he starting blathering about how he needed to get a gas coupon and while he did so I could go shopping for 10 minutes. Indeed.
It was starting to pour rain by this point. I found myself, 10 minutes later (and in the opposite direction of my hotel), at Tom’s International Clothiers, a tailor shop where high pressure sales nearly ensure a tuk tuk driver a big fat coupon for gas if he can drag a stupid farang into their shop. F-in’ hell I was so pissed I almost started swearing at the sales people as they followed me around asking me what I was looking for (NOTHING) and trying their best to get me to try on a suit that would cost around $200 (custom tailored of course). I walked out and asked the tuk tuk driver if we could go now.
He looked surprised that I was exiting with the same baggage as I had had upon entrance into the trap tailor shop. And nope, we couldn’t go now! Of course not. The windshield of the tuk tuk had no wiper, I would have to get a taxi. I paid him his stupid 30 baht and, with laptop in my shoulder bag, walked out into the downpouring Bangkok afternoon (it was the remenants of the typhoon remember) in search of a cab. I got about 50 feet away and turned around to see the tuk tuk take off the opposite way. I checked my belongings: all okay. Another 100 meters later I was getting soaked when another tuk tuk came along; a young guy who wanted 150 baht to take me to the hotel. I told him no, 50 baht. He didn’t know where the hotel was, but finally accepted. Not two minutes in my new tuk tuk and he pulled over at the Two Towers Hotel to ask for directions from the hotel valet. No one seemed to know where my hotel was so I hopped out of the tuk tuk and decided to wait for a cab in the shelter of the hotel entrance. Finally a cab came along who said he knew the hotel and off we went (not without some bickering over whether or not to turn on the meter).
We were stuck in traffic for at least 45 minutes, the meter going up, the cabby’s mood declining steadily along with complaints that this should be a 300 baht fare. I told him no, we do the meter and I’ll tip him. He said I should tip 300 baht. I told him no. He told me he was sick with a headache and was tired from all the traffic. We continued.
I arrived at my hotel, starving and 160 baht poorer. It was 5pm. Restaurants in the hotel start going at 6pm. I headed up to my room which was finally ready, dropped off my stuff and went out in search of food.
Dodging the endless queues of taxidrivers and tuk tuk drivers wanting to take me somewhere ("Hey you, how are you? Where you go?!” with outstretched hand), I finally found a little bar with a couple other white people and sat down. I ordered some spring rolls and a seafood rice dish along with a beer. By the time I’d finished, my tongue was on fire, I’d drained two beer and I hated Bangkok. The menu said nothing about this being a spicy dish. The dirty old guy next to me flirting with some Thai girl topped it all off when I heard the word “hotel” and they left quickly.
I stewed in my room for the rest of the night. Thank God for Civilization IV.
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