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Vienna by bike

04.10.2006 15:33 Around the world - Source: blogs.smh

Bike tiny.jpg.jpg

Is there a finer, healthier or more efficient way to explore a town than by bike? Much like Melbourne, the city of Vienna heartily acknowledges the bicycle as king, which makes riding there pure pleasure. On a glorious sunny day, as temperatures hit the high 20s yet with a cooling breeze wafting through the streets, I set off around the Austrian capital to see its historic sights and hopefully also discover some hidden delights.

A half day in the saddle is time enough to peddle through much of the historic heart of town which surrounds the central pedestrian core of Karntnerstrasse, Graben and Kohlmarkt, and time enough also to cross the Donaukanal and escape momentarily into "the Vienna woods", the shady, forested park known as the Prater, a popular playground for the Viennese.

My tour on two wheels begins in the Neuer Markt from where I cycle first around the Opera House, taking in the famous Sacher Hotel and the impressive Albertina art repository. In nearby Josefzplatz I stop to marvel at the magnificent facade of the Austrian National Library, then push on through a dark connecting cobblestone passageway to Michaelerplatz, but first pausing to give way to magnificent Lippizaners as they cross the passage for morning work at the adjacent Spanish Riding School.



Lippi 1.jpg.JPGLippizaner preparing for school



Lippi 2.jpg.JPGA momentarily startled Lippizaner eyes my camera


I zip past other tourists gathering in the Heldenplatz, the heart of the Hofburg - the Imperial Palace - and pedal on through the Volksgarten, where locals sit with their newspapers, relaxing in the sunshine on chairs fringing the manicured lawns and flower beds.



Bike 3.jpg.JPGEverywhere you stop there is something to admire

My route takes me through the gates onto the shady cycle path lining the Ringstrasse and on past the Rathaus (Town Hall) with its distinctive spires. Cutting back through the streets I pedal to Judenplatz and see the moving Holocaust memorial, then ride through Hoher Markt, swing left and reach the Danube Canal.



bike danube.jog.JPGA family cycles beside the Danube Canal


I follow the cycle path beside the water, passing beneath a few bridges, to arrive at the Hundertwasser gate. From here I nip back onto cobbled streets and take in the landmark Hundertwasser House, one of Vienna's most colourful attractions.



Hundert3.jpg.JPGThe much photographed Hundertwasser House facade.


Crossing a canal bridge to enter the Prater, I pedal through woods in dappled sunlight before joining the Hauptallee, the road bisecting the park in a straight line stretching almost four kilometres.



wheel.jpg.JPGVienna's giant ferris wheel as seen from the Hauptallee

At one end of the Hauptallee is the Reisenrad, Vienna's famous giant ferris wheel, surrounded by a funfair and beer gardens. At the far end are two popular restaurants and, beyond them, stables and a golf club. On this sunny Saturday both restaurants and beer gardens are packed. The Budvar is flowing freely as Vienna enjoys summer's last hurrah.



bike food 2.jpg.JPGA hungry cyclist contemplates a restaurant menu in the Prater


Cycling back into the city to return my bike I pass through Karlsplatz where the fountain is ringed by scores of vividly-painted standing bears, a touring art installation for world peace with contributions from many countries. Among them is Australia's gleaming black bear painted by Ken Done.



Bears 2.jpg.JPGInspecting the touring bear-for-world-peace installation



Bear Done.jpg.JPGThe Ken Done bear, currently standing in Vienna

Trip notes: Pedal Power (tel 729 72 34) delivers bikes to your hotel and collects them later. Such convenience, however, is not cheap. A half-day hire (5 hours) is 24 euro and 24 hour hire costs 32 euro. A three hour guided tour and rental for a day costs 37 euro. A cheaper alternative is to hire a bike by the hour from one of Vienna's many other cycle shops. There are also bikes for hire by the hour in the Prater itself.

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